Monday, December 14, 2015

My 23rd Birthday Makeup: Double Cut Crease Eye Tutorial

A few months ago, one of my favorite Instagram makeup artists, DressYourFace, posted a double cut crease look that she had done on one of her brides. This style instantly went viral and everyone started to post looks just like it. I fell in love with the elegance and drama of the eye makeup and knew that at some point I would have to recreate the look for myself. Last week on Twitter, I asked you guys what you would like to see me wear for my birthday and this double cut crease look just barely beat out a vampy makeup look (secretly I was happy that it did). I had put off this makeup for too long. To be honest, I couldn't think of a better look for an eyeshadow junkie like myself to wear on their birthday--it's such a head turner! And combined with the darker lippie, I think I appeased those of you who were really hoping for a vampy makeup tutorial.

Before I begin with the makeup tutorial, however, I wanted to note that I did not have any crystals to place on the lash line as Tamanna likes to do. Instead, I made the look my own and worked with what I had. I think that's really important to stress to anyone who wants to recreate any of my tutorials. Never feel obligated to go out and purchase the exact same products as I use--work with what you've got!

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1 I started off with a primed eyelid using my favorite primer of the moment, the Lorac Behind the Scenes Eye Primer.

2 Next, I laid the foundation for the cut crease by using a transition shade. This will be crucial for all the blending to follow. I used Mauve from the Lorac Pro Palette to create the basic shape. Sweeping it through my crease, I followed the shape of my eye and flicked it upwards towards the end of my brow with a medium sized blending brush.

3 To further define that shape, I took the same blending brush and essentially traced over it with NYX Nude Matte Shadow in Underneath It All (neutral medium brown). If it's a little messy, that's okay because it will be cleaned up later.

4 Here is where the cut crease begins to take shape. With a pencil brush, I used NYX Nude Matte Shadow in Skinny Dip (medium plum) to fully sketch out the shape. You can make your cut crease as dramatic as you want in how much curve/dip you give it. I blended it out slightly with the blending brush from the previous steps, but the point of a cut crease is to have slightly harsher lines, so don't blend it out completely. Also, you don't need to be too neat when cutting your crease as the area below can be cleaned up, but I would caution you with how far up you bring your darker shades since you can't take away darkness as easily in that area.

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5 Now to clean up our mess. First, I wanted to sketch out the overall shape of the cut crease from underneath so I used a skintone shaded pencil to do so. I used the NYX Wonder Pencil in Light.

6 I, then, filled in the rest of my lid with a skintone base, Mac Pro Longwear Paint Pot in Soft Ochre. Also, I created a bit more depth to the cut crease by taking Black from the Lorac Pro Palette on a thin liner brush and going over the very base of the cut crease. To diffuse the harshness, I did slight flicks upward with the liner brush (with no additional product) so that it blended in nicely with the shades I already laid down. You should start to see the upper cut crease come together at this point even if it's not perfect.

7 Using Vanilla Extract (light beige with a slight sheen) from the Mac Eye Shadow x 15 Palette in Warm Neutral, I set that base that I placed on the lid in the previous step. Creating a lighter lid like this, I found, helps to make the following detail work "pop" a little bit more, which is important since I'm working with a ton of basic, neutral shades.

8 To make this cut crease extra special for my birthday, I decided to add a bit of glitter, but first. I needed to add a "base" for the glitter to "pop" against. I find that doing this also helps give you a guideline to follow with your glitter. So directly underneath the cut crease that I just carved out, I followed the shape using NYX White Liquid Liner.

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9 Over the white liner, place whatever glitter concoction you like. I stuck to my neutrals, using glitters in the silver family. First, I followed over the white liner with NYX Liquid Crystal Liner in Crystal Hip, which is a pretty sheer formula, but works perfectly as a sticky base to place glitters on top of. Using the NYX Liquid Crystal Liner applicator, I dipped into the Eye Kandy Cosmetics Glitter in Confetti and patted it right over where I placed the Crystal Liner. I like this step because it really emphasizes the cut crease.

10 To begin the second cut crease in this look, I created the wing of my eyeliner using Milani Eye Tech Extreme Liquid Eye Liner in Black. I kept the wing thin and angled it in the same direction as the upper cut crease I created. I kept it thin enough so that there would be a small, but noticeable, space between the two.

11 Now for the hard part--creating the second cut crease. With dash-like strokes, create a line extending upwards from the wing. You can take this as far in as you would like; I stopped a third of the way onto my lid. Also, try to create the "dip" directly underneath the one that occurs in the upper cut crease. This gives the look a nice "flow".

12 Fill it in! Using Inglot Gel Liner in # 77, I filled in the area between the line we created and the lash line. Then, I smudged it out with a small detail brush and Black from the Lorac Pro Palette.

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13 Line the rest of your upper lash line the way you normally would. You can even create a cat eye shape, which looks really nice with the double cut crease. I kept it simpler because I was going out and I know my eyes tend to water.

14 And, of course, I had to add more glitter to the look. So just as I did before, I created a white line right above the eyeliner I did on the upper lash line. I stopped this line right where the double cut crease begins.

15 I then applied the same glitter concoction as before on top of the white liner.

16 To balance out the look, I smoked out the lower lash line by applying the Inglot Gel Liner to the waterline with an angled liner brush and smudged it out using Black from the Lorac Pro Palette and a pencil brush. Then, I blended that out with Skinny Dip on an angled blending brush.

17 Lastly, I did my finishing touches--applied Mac Nylon Eyeshadow to my brow bone and House of Lashes Boudoir to my upper lash line.

Face Deets
♥ Foundation - L'Oreal Infallible Pro Matte
♥ Concealer - LA Girl Pro Conceal
♥ Bronzer - Urban Decay Naked Skin Ultra Definition Pressed Finishing Powder in Naked Dark
♥ Blush - Tarte Amazonian Clay Blush in Glisten
♥ Highlight - Sephora Luminizing Drops in Ultralight topped with Becca Shimmering Skin Perfector Pressed in Opal
♥ Lips - LA Splash Lip Couture Waterproof Liquid Lipstick in Vampire


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